Ooe Yofukuten | Mitsuru Collaboration Double-Wear Overalls
Mitsuru Vintage store is a little place mostly unknown outside of Nagoya and Japanese vintage maniacs. They don't have a website and they probably won't sell you these if you don't live in Japan. Sorry to disappoint...
Ooe-san masterminded the design of these overalls, and let me get it right to the point -they're nothing short of amazing.
However it is important to point how the vast details, and construction methods presented here that culminate into an actual high quality garment. Products labeled as "high quality" often times are just made in small batches or contain expensive materials (labeled: selvedge, quality, hand-made, etc.). These overalls are for the most part single-needle stitched, with no overlock stitching or filigree. Modeled after pants from the early 1900's, there are no belt loops, or rivets. The design is entirely original with details borrowed from some of the best work-wear construction methods. This type of quality takes time, especially in design, sewing, and material choice. The minimal, unobtrusive labeling seals the deal.
These pants are really simple as the stitching blends perfectly with the fabric. The subtle construction adds function and doesn't add bulk. The fabric is the perfect weight for summer, even in Japan. They are made from dead-stock linen and cotton blend canvas. It is light and comfortable, with just the right about of weight. The little cotton husk-flecks in the yarn give it a nice ecru tinge. Also this non-selvedge fabric is a good example of why selvedge doesn't always mean "good-quality".
Starting with the complex pockets that are also a part of the double-knee construction. There are no side seams as the legs are made from one piece of material and flat felled on the inseam. The continuous fly is a great feature and also adds to the quality of the construction. All the pockets are double-stitched beautifully and the subtle black hardware (steel) doesn't add any distraction. The reinforced quadruple stitched crotch is the final detail that really finishes it all up. These pants are well thought-out, hopefully we will see a denim version and maybe future variations of this pattern.